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PHOTO BY CLARE JENSEN

FISHY BUSINESS. Northern Fish Old Town employees Margaret Fugich (left) and Valeria Kolppa stand inside the recently opened store on Ruston Way. The retail fish shop, which was formerly Johnny’s Seafood, offers a variety of fresh seafood, prepared dishes and a walk-up espresso window.

New fish market could be destination for seafood lovers, Ruston walkers

By Clare Jensen

Northern Fish Products Inc. has come right about full circle to their original 1912 location with the opening of their second public retail shop: Northern Fish Old Town.

The Swanes family, which recently inducted the fifth generation into the family business, has a goal of keeping good, fresh, high quality seafood at the hands of Tacomans.

John Swanes, fourth generation owner, started working for his dad right out of college and said the family business has always been about quality.

“It’s so basic – people still want something that’s really good to eat.”

Swanes believes that’s what Northern Fish Products, Inc. has always supplied, and hopes that the new location (formerly Johnny’s Seafood), which opened May 14, will be “a destination fish market,” something the Swanes thinks they’ve achieved at their other retail location on South 56th Street.

“People are going to go out of their way to drive down because it’s so good. We’ve kind of proven it the last couple of years [at the other location.] We’re not just making this up,” Swanes said.

Because Northern Fish Products, Inc. is historically a wholesale operation, they are able to provide the freshest variety of seafood to retail customers as well.

Northern Fish Old Town sells everything from the basics to the exotic. They have the sought after Copper River salmon, halibut cheeks, mahi-mahi, razor clams, snapper, Cajun catfish, fresh tuna and swordfish. They also serve prepared seafood dishes, such as their signature ceviche and chips, fresh pesto shrimp salad, Asian-inspired octopus salad, and a variety of smoked salmons and home made chowders.

The hordes of summer time Ruston Way walkers can stop in for a snack, smoothie or espresso from the store’s Fishtales walk-up window, or take it to go. Drivers can park along the Way, or call ahead and pull up front for roadside service at the new shop.

Swanes said they expect to be expanding their ready-to-eat menu in the future, and are currently working to perfect a convenient, portable fish sandwich for passers-by and takers-home. Store manager Debbie Goss said the business has been booming since the doors at Northern Fish Old Town opened to the public a few weeks ago. Goss said she has been in the seafood business for the past 15 years, so she knows a thing or two about the fish market.

“It’s top quality sea-food, and it’s fresh everyday,” she said.

And in a few months, the fish will be coming right of the boat and into the store. Swanes said this fall Northern Fish. Old Town will unload its shipment dockside at the Ruston Way waterfront.

Northern Fish Old Town is located at 2201 Ruston Way and is open 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sundays. The espresso window opens daily at 8 a.m.

Call (253) 272-4104 for roadside pick-up orders, and for more information.

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